Posts Tagged ‘fashion industry’

Since Billy Boy and that funny little girl who was 13 and looked 97 came along

Interesting article from today’s Times about the stuff that goes on at PR firms every year come fashion week,

Complicating matters for designers and their publicists as they hurtle through preparations for some 300 shows over 8 days is the fact that last season’s seating charts have had to be thrown out. In addition to the usual wrangling of seats for celebrities (Blake Lively, Claire Danes and Julianne Moore are the usual suspects, but Snooki would probably be welcome by now), and finding new seats for popular bloggers, there has been a stunning upheaval amid the ranks of traditional glossy magazines this season that is making it hard to figure out just where to place the most important editors, without offending them.

The planning for this year’s event also serves as a reminder that the days when magazine editors were kings and queens at Fashion Week are long over. Their turf has been eroded by the ceaseless arrival of barely recognizable celebrities, followed by a wave of top bloggers — not to mention anyone who has the slightest connection to Mrs. Obama.

“I’d still put in the front row, but not anywhere near Vogue,” said Corinna Springer, who produces shows for several emerging designers. Likewise, Women’s Wear Daily editors, many of whom wore dual hats by writing for W and used to sit together as a team, might appreciate some distance from Stefano Tonchi, the former editor of T: The Times Style Magazine who moved to W in March and promptly fired half its staff.

Worse, any seating faux pas will be instantly broadcast by the pack of journalists and photographers whose beat is the choreography of the front row. “It has been changing for a while, since Billy Boy and that funny little girl who was 13 and looked 97 came along,” said Michael Roberts, who was the Vanity Fair fashion director until June, when he was replaced. (Mr. Roberts, now a style editor at large for the magazine, was referring to the famous-before-their-bedtime bloggers Bryan Boy and Tavi Gevinson.)

I’d have to say, personally, I think PR firms have it the worst when it comes to fashion weeks. I mean, everybody in the industry is stressed out, but for designers who are expected to put on a great show every year, it’s the PR firms that are throwing up blood preparing for all that shit to happen, and then to manage the press once that shit does happen.

And that quote from Michael Roberts is the funniest thing I’ve ever read coming from the mouth of a fashion-related individual.

Count ’em up

This is just fucking depressing.

We counted the number of spots in each of the 122 fall, 2010, shows held in New York that were covered by […] The numbers, as you can see, were not encouraging. Of 4,095 turns on the runway, only 662 went to models who weren’t white. That’s barely 16%.

Black models, at 323 bookings, were used the most of any single ethnic group, aside from whites. Asians were second, with 264. Latinas were a distant third, with 61 trips down the catwalk. Fourteen times during this fashion week, models of other races were used in a runway show.


V Magazine’s “Plus-Sized Issue”

(more images here)

For their Spring issue, V Magazine is dedicated to showcasing plus-sized models in an effort to illustrate that oh em gee, plus-sized models are beautiful too!

Just like the first ever “All Black” issue of Italian Vogue from a while back, I liked the idea and I was interested in the final product that the respective companies were going to show its readers but I don’t think these issues are going to do shit in the grand scheme of things. Given the opportunity, I would love for there to be a first “All Asian” issue of any Vogue, but I think these attempts to try and “enlighten” the masses — by attempting to say that beauty is everywhere — are superficial and won’t make a dent at all in what truly matters.

Taking the example of the Black issue and the plus-sized issue of the magazines, it’s problematic that there needs to be a separation of Black models and plus-sized models from what we regularly see in magazines already. Like, they can only exist intermittently in all our regular issues, but unless we dedicate a whole “lookit me!” issue with only models of a certain look, they don’t fit into our standard beauty ideals. They have to appear in every single issue and without any head honcho editor pointing out in glee, “Look! Look at how progressive we are! Look at this Black model! And this plus-sized one! Oh and we’ll throw in an Asian one too!”


SS 2010 shows, part six: 3.1 Phillip Lim

And wrapping up my NYFW posts is my favorite show from the New York shows: 3.1 Phillip Lim. I would post all pictures from the collection + backstage, but that’s what’s for. (Show, details, backstage.)

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